Fashionaholic - Polyvore Friends

Prada presented knit waistcoats or armless buttoned gilets over armless collarless shifts of shirts. Tops, some in a flexible wetlook fabric, had holes. Trousers with tiny black and white checks or tweed-like narrowed at the ankle.

"I wanted it to be contemporary, wearable," she said.

The theme was also urban at Emporio Armani - for which designer Giorgio Armani got a standing ovation from some of the crowd. Armani, looking to city connections, presented suits in cool shades of grey with a fitted cut and defined shoulders and trousers with small darts at the front and turn-ups.

"It is city smart but also comfortable," Armani said in show notes. He also turned to Asia with jackets in techno mesh and put in dabs of orange on jackets, fleeces and accessories.

For his Giorgio Armani line, he went for classicism - suits were chequered or striped, shirts had oversized patterns.

Armani also put out white suits with sky blue patterned tops. White was also evident at Salvatore Ferragamo and Ferre which had a "free and easy yet ever impeccable mood".

Versace and Gucci, whose mood was "resolutely optimistic", started their shows with men dressed in white or pale creams.

Versace also showed comfort with unbuttoned tunics and safari-like jackets, also seen at Ermenegildo Zegna and Ferre which had sparkly tops underneath.

Reds also featured - from fiery red for Gucci evening suits to a mainly bright red and black line of suits, tops and trousers from Dirk Bikkembergs. Bottega Veneta had a mix of red tones - purple, red and orange with tie-dye patterns on striped jackets.

"Men are looking for excitement in fashion," Bottega Veneta Creative Director Tomas Maier said.

Earthy tones were also seen at Salvatore Ferragamo.

Burberry's Christopher Bailey took outerwear from dark to pastel colours, which he said was like starting with rain and ending with sunshine, an analogy of the tough economic climate.

He chose a softer shoulder on suiting, worn with crew necks and knits that had straps. Cavalli also splashed pink, yellow and green on tops, trousers and shiny shoes.

Denim featured heavily - ripped all the way down at Dolce & Gabbana and the key material for the D&G "Brit Cowboy" line - in jeans, shirts and patchwork prints, at times embroidered with shiny studs. The designer duo mixed denim with velvet jackets, ties and bowties and suede or leather boots.

"You have to fight the crisis with creativity, with the best materials," Cavalli said.

For accessories, bags came in all shapes and sizes while shoes were mainly rounded or had raised tops when it came to sneakers. Designers also played with plastic sunglasses.